Kwara Camp

Kwara sits in a large private concession next to Moremi, and the concession is the point. Being on private land means driving off road and driving after dark, neither of which is allowed inside the national parks, so you see a great deal that other camps cannot show you.

The camp was rebuilt from scratch in 2019, there are only nine tents, and it takes over-18s only. That combination makes it genuinely quiet, and it is the one we suggest for couples who want the wildlife without anybody else's children at the dinner table.

The guiding is what people remember. Every vehicle carries a tracker as well as a guide, which is not the norm in Botswana: one pair of eyes stays on the bush while the other talks to you. Vehicles have three rows of three but take a maximum of four guests, so everybody has a window seat. Afternoon drives include a sundowner and then continue after dark with a spotlight.

Water is the other half. Mokoro through the lagoon and channels, and motorboats further out among the hippo and the waterbirds. Between August and September the boats can reach the heronries at Godikwe and Gcobega. Walking safaris run with an armed guide most of the time, though your guide will call it off if the grass is high enough to hide a predator.

Between activities there are two small pools, one at each end of camp, each with its own lounge and bar looking over the floodplain. Dinner is three courses at a big communal table, with the fire before and after.

The rooms

Tents

Nine tents, well spaced for privacy, all looking over the floodplain. En suite with a slipper bath, indoor and outdoor showers, a lounge area and a private veranda with lounge chairs.

Good to know

• 9 guest rooms
• Open all year
• Over 18s only