The Royal Livingstone

The Royal Livingstone is a proper hotel rather than a camp, and its setting is what sells it: on the bank of the Zambezi inside Mosi-oa-Tunya National Park, close enough to walk to Victoria Falls in about five minutes. Because the grounds are inside the park, zebra and impala wander through them, which is a curious thing to watch over breakfast.

Rooms are elegant and traditional in feel, with ceiling fans, full-length curtains and pastel furnishings, set against a modern bathroom and free Wi-Fi. Every room has a balcony, terrace or sunroom looking over the gardens or the river. There is butler service throughout.

It is large, at 173 rooms and suites, and it is also a Deluxe property at ££, which makes it one of the better-value ways to stay in real comfort at the falls.

There is a great deal to do, and most of it is optional and paid locally. Walking to the falls and watching the wildlife in the gardens are free. Beyond that: helicopter and microlight flights, a sunset cruise, Livingstone Island and Devil's Pool, canoeing, white water rafting, the bungee off the bridge, horse riding, game drives in the national park, and a cultural tour of Livingstone.

Food is taken seriously here, with two restaurants, a boma, high tea on the veranda and the option of a five-course dinner aboard the Royal Livingstone Express. The Travellers Bar is where everyone ends up.

On timing: the falls are worth seeing at any time of year, but they are usually at their most spectacular from February to May, when the flow is at its highest.

The rooms

Deluxe rooms

Thirty square metres, sleeping two, with a private balcony or veranda over the garden or river and an en suite with bath and separate shower.

Deluxe corner rooms

The same size and facilities as the deluxe rooms, but with a sunroom in place of the balcony, and views of either the river or the gardens.

Livingstone suite

Sixty-three square metres for two: bedroom, en suite, a living and dining room, and a private veranda with sun loungers. All have river views.

Presidential suite

Eighty-eight square metres, with bedroom, bathroom, lounge and dining room, and a large terrace with an outdoor dining area.

Good to know

• 173 rooms and suites
• Open all year
• Children of all ages welcome
• Inside the national park, so wildlife comes through the grounds
• Most activities are optional and paid locally
• The falls are at their fullest from February to May